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My name is Rob and I designed a line of men’s performance underwear, Shrine Boxers. When I started this project I didn’t have ANY fashion experience, just a vision: Create underwear you can wear from work to working without sacrificing comfort or performance. Here’s an overview of the process and what I learned. This is a recommended order but in reality there is a lot of overlap. Rule 1: Attention to detail!
- Research & Purchase Supplies
- Technical Design
- Grading, Pattern Making and Marking
- Sourcing Manufacturing
There are many ways to sell fashion: you can wholesale without a brand, you can be brand focused and create an e-commerce only strategy, you can set up a bricks and mortar boutique in a trendy hipster area, you can heavily publicise your launch and invite the press in for a big fashion show. Oct 08, 2014 Billie sweater dress from ElizabethSuzann. If you have bigger goals and really intend to launch a clothing line, though, beginning with home sewing patterns is the wrong move according to most fashion designers.
Research & Buy
Start with a general mockup of what you’re looking to do. Don’t worry about how you’re going to do it, that’s where the technical designer will help out. Try to write as many details as possible: look, feel, fabrics & stitching.
Check out the competition. There’s a ton of detailed information on product pages. You’ll see how they constructed their product, fabrics they used and features you might want to add. Buy as many products you can and test them out.
An example for Shrine is the gusset I added. I knew I wanted the underwear not ride up and have lots of mobility. I found on some of the brands I liked there was piece of fabric in the crotch area that made the legs stay in place better. I went to their sites and some mentioned the word “gusset.” Googled it and knew this needed to be added.
Now that you have an idea of what you want, you need to buy the fabrics to make your first set of samples. This can be tough, especially if you’re using advanced fabrics. Try to get as close as possible, if you can’t get the exact fabric. You want to make sure that your sample fabrics have the same stretch and pull as what you want your final product to be. I had to make a special trip to LA’s fashion district and I still didn’t get an exact match. Another good resource is the Magic Trade Show that has a bunch of fabric mills and manufacturers in one place and that part of the show is free to enter.
Technical Designer
Technical designers are like the engineers of fashion. They take your ideas and make them a reality and give you the blueprint to make your product. To find a local technical designer, post a job listing on the local fashion incubator or fashion school’s website, search on craigslist and google.
Rule 2: DO YOUR due diligence for every contractor and ask if they’ve done this type of project before, education level and ask to speak to others that have used them before.
Ask to get a “Tech Pack.” This will give the manufacturer all the details on how to construct the garment. This should run around $500-$800 for a few different pieces. This should take a couple of months to finalize the design and is one of them most critical steps so keep re-designing until you’re satisfied with the result. Pay extra for additional samples to pass around to your friends for feedback.
Grading, Pattern Making and Marking
Now that you have your tech pack, you need to find a company that can take that sample and scale all the pieces in the garment for the different sizes you’re going to offer (ex. S-XXL). Discuss with your technical designer and grading company what the appropriate grading (scaling) in sizes should be for the body type you’re targeting.
Get a digitized copy that has the measurements for all the pieces that will make up your garment. You’ll send these to manufacturers. “Marker Making” will take all the different pieces for all sizes and optimize how to use the least amount of fabric.
Again do your due diligence. The company I first used almost set me back 6 months with a bunch of BS and I thought I was dead in the water. It should cost around $300-$500.
Sourcing Manufacturing
I would actually start this process early on because it might take more time than expected to find the right manufacturer for you. I used Alibaba (keywords: cut & Sew, for me undergarment) and contacts I met at the fashion trade show Magic:Sourcing. You want to find a manufacturer that specializes in your type of clothing. Seems obvious but manufacturers will say they can do produce anything. I tried US, but based on all the research, overseas is actually better quality because they specialize in these fields.
I sent out an introductory email to close to 100 manufacturers with product specs and asked them for a rough quote, order minimums (this can be tough when starting up), production standards used and terms (You want a FOB quote- Freight on Board).
If your fabrics are extremely unique than you’ll have to purchase them separately. I had to find a waistband manufacturer to make the quality we needed. Same with our moisture wicking fabric.
Once you’ve narrowed it down then you’ll have to get samples made. They’ll typically charge $200-300 for a few samples and will put it towards your purchase order if you go with them.
DUE DILIGENCE and Inspection!! I hired a third party company for $100 to do an inspection of company records and factory. YOU MUST DO THIS. I almost went with a company and found out they didn’t own the factory and didn’t have an export license. They lied the whole time. Once you do pick a manufacturer, inspect production as many times as possible. That’s Rule 3: Inspect early and often. There are plenty of companies that can help you with this.
Feel free to ask any questions and good luck with your project!
edit: formatting
edit 2: A few people have PM'd me for a discount. Use 'reddit' as discount code to get 20% off
edit 2: A few people have PM'd me for a discount. Use 'reddit' as discount code to get 20% off
70 comments
Ever dreamed of being on Project Runway, but never actually touched a sewing machine or needle in your life? Ever dreamed of showing at New York Fashion Week, but have no idea where to even begin?
It's a common refrain: In the world of fashion, one day you're in and the next day you're out. But there are quite a few steps you have to take before you can even enjoy the luxury of being in.
SEE ALSO: Get a lifetime membership to the School of Game Design on sale for $59
You have to actually design clothes – sketching, rendering, etc. You have to actually make the clothes – perfecting fit, sizing, fabric selection, etc. And then, you have to figure out the best ways to market and promote your brand because, like, what good are your ingenious designs if no one ever sees them?
You could always apply to one of those super-expensive fashion schools like FIT and Parsons to get a tailored pant leg up on the competition, but those schools are just as competitive as they are pricey.
Another option that's not-so-expensive, perhaps even down-right cheap, is to hop online for everything you need to know. And we aren't talking about Youtube tutorial videos on how to thread a needle or shorten a hem, we're talking A1 fashion classes to help you launch a career in the fashion industry.
Need help with learning how to sketch? There's an online class for that. What about pattern cutting? There's a class for that too. There are courses that can teach you how to communicate with contractors, how to promote your brand, and even how to sell your creations.
We won't even make you Google to find the best options: We've rounded up five from Udemy you'll be obsessed with.
1. How to Start a Clothing Line: The Basics to Get Started
This is a great course for people who are curious about the fashion biz and people who always had a passion for starting their own clothing line but didn't know where to begin. By the time you complete the class, you'll know the basics. You'll have the foundational elements of fashion and business. This lecture-based course will help you understand how to identify your customer base, walk you through the design process, assist you with business planning, and help you get started with manufacturing.
The class is broken up into the following sections:
- Creating a clear business plan
- Looking at your company's projected financials
- Performing research on the rest of the market that you are in
- Creating your line and building your brand
- Finding vendors and manufactures
What you'll need:
You'll need to have Adobe Illustrator already installed for sections that teach you how to draw fashion flats.
Cons:
This course does not teach fashion drawing or sewing, which many fashion enthusiasts see as key elements of design. But it can help you understand how to start your business using the right tools.
How to start a clothing line - $11.99
2. Intro to Fashion Illustration
Even though it seems every industry is going digital, there's nothing like having the ability to actually sketch your garments by hand. The instructor of this fashion illustration course will show you step-by-step how to draw a fashion figure in unique and interesting poses. You'll go over fashion portraits and how to use watercolors along the way.
What you'll need:
The professor says you can use whatever illustration tools you prefer, but suggests the following:
- Fabriano Watercolor Paper (Hot Press)
Bonus:
The student feedback for this course is awesome. The class has an average 4.5 out of 5 stars. The professor herself has been rated 4.4 out of 5 as well, so I'd say the class is a pretty safe bet.
Intro to Fashion Illustration Course - $29.99 usually, but on sale for $10.99
3. Fashion Cutting And Making for Absolute Beginners
Pattern cutting is an essential part of the design process and the instructor of this class says she's been a pattern maker for over a decade, working with high-end fashion designers in London. This video lecture course will teach you how to take a 2D illustration and turn it into a 3D wearable garment. This course is ideal for fashion students, enthusiasts, hobbyists, as well as industry professionals who are seeking to advance their sewing skills.
What you'll learn:
- Pattern cutting basics
- Equipment required
- Basic garment construction
- Necklines and Seems
- How to sew a basic shift dress
- How to sew simple pencil dress
What you'll need:
You'll need a basic bodice block and pattern making materials. You'll also need equipment to help you with fabric cutting.
Critique:
Some 56 percent of students give the class 5 stars but of the ones who didn't enjoy it, a few cited that some of the lectures are a bit repetitive. However, no matter when you want to be in fashion, it never hurts to know something about garment construction.
Fashion Cutting and Making Course - $11.99
4. How to Start a T-shirt Business / How to start a clothing line
It seems like everybody has a t-shirt business these days. But don't let the Instagram likes fool you, it takes time and skill to produce a line of tees that is actually profitable. Designers need to use high quality fabrics because people can buy t-shirts anywhere for relatively low prices. The instructor of this course wants to help teach you how to start and what things to keep in mind. If you're a newbie who wants to start an online business *or* if you already make your own tees but want to learn how to market them, this course is probably for you.
What you'll learn:
- How to make a plan and do research
- How to choose printing method for your business
- Production
- Sales and Marketing
What you'll need:
For this course, all you need is an internet connection and a willingness to learn something new.
Critique:
What's great about this class is it teaches you the good stuff. It discusses issues with running a design business as well as how to assess your competition. The instructor has a 3.2 rating which isn't all that great, but odds are, you'll leave the class learning something you didn't know before.
T-shirt Design Business Course - $11.99
5. How to Promote Your Clothing Brand
So, you have a cool collection that you want the world to see, now what? Start here. This course was designed to teach you how to set up a photo shoot as well as ways to connect with your customers using social media. You'll learn how to create and utilize your brand identity to effectively market and sell your designs.
What you'll need:
Things you probably already have: a computer, tablet, or smartphone to watch the one-hour on-demand instructional video.
What you'll learn:
- Branding
- Setting-up photoshoots
- Social media tools
- Creating your slogan
- Keywords
- Hashtags
- Online community
Reviews:
The instructor has taught almost 3,000 students and has an average rating of 4.1, which is pretty good. Students call her class 'excellent' and 'straight forward,' however some expressed difficulty understanding the instructor's French accent.
How to Promote Your Clothing Brand Course - $11.99